In the kit for the new parts for the balance shaft it has 1 small pipe plug. Notice the pin next to the shaft has been drilled. And, you may find it’s damaged already. There recessed but not to hard to find or reach with things out of the way. Speaking of getting things out of the way, there’s a rubber hose that needs to be simply unclipped from the top cover. Once that was off and out of the way I removed the crank pulley bolt. Put a wrench here and give the pulley a tug as if you were trying to tighten the bolt. I put a spare rim and wood underneath the car behind the jack cup, for saftey, incase the jack decided to loose pressure in the middle of things. For all the props that Apple gets for their elegant industrial design, would it kill them to put four screws on the bottom?
The red arrows below indicate 3 other screws to remove from underneath. You’ll be able to see all the attaching screws. I’m sure you’ll see it. Defective grounding of the CDI module may cause inferior engine starting, excessive rpm drop during runup, rough idling, reduced or uneven cruise performance, and continued running after shutdown. Cleaning of the brass loops of the CDI module and reinstallation with dielectric grease brought some, but not perfect, relief. I haven’t been able to import any of the grease recommended by Xiongda, as it is not able to be transported by air. I used a scriber to scratch any pieces from between the teeth of the ring gear and the steel spur gears – there were a few pieces hiding in the sticky grease. There are often pen marks on the steel planet gears which need to be all facing inwards – I have centre-punched these marks on some of my gears to be more durable. Take care about removing the steel gear plate (and opening the inner planetary gear set), as there are only certain positions that enable all gears to mesh. In order to lessen the cost to repair all of this broken bolts, I invested in a repair manual, this has helped a lot in determining what it would take to repair all of these broken bolts, and it helped find the correct part numbers.
Take note of any markings on the bolt, this was a handy reference for me when re-tightening this bolt. We made a tool to bolt on, but the clutch unit was so tight I was worried we would break or strip the 2 M5 bolts. The nylon sun gear is front and centre of the motor after removal of the clutch unit. If the grinding bit is already seized, the method of removal is based on how fast it is stuck. This most often settles the bit and avoids chipping. Got the lug nuts broken loose, and then jacked the car up to get the wheel off and the car up a little bit. Second, I tried to, and I couldn’t get the thing to budge. First thing to do is remove these 2 hoses. Okay, the first thing we’re going to do is hose down this cup area here, on the barrel.
The barrel will pull straight out of the action. You can simply pull the housing backwards and it will come loose and out of the interior panel hole. Cutting the metal housing will leave it ovalised. Using the inner portion of most cable cutters (or flat pliers), squish the housing so that it is round again. Sixth – Detach the electrical cable from the window control box and set it aside again. To start with, I left it in 5th gear and set the parking brake. The top left stud for the fuel cooler mount appears in this photo next to the hose clamp for the intercooler. I’ve run 2 motors with automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in the motor for a couple of years now: it makes the motor run quieter, I think they run cooler, but they can drip a little oil out along the axle, especially if the bike is left lying on its side. I found that when I jacked the car up, if I raised the passenger side, gear oil would drain out the driver’s side.